Review: Pearl Morissette Primesautier Lemberger

Lemberger is most commonly found in Germany, Austria and Hungary where it’s known as Kékfrankos. Thankfully, we have intrepid Niagara growers who feel that there’s a future for this varietal in Ontario.

Records indicate that it was brought to Germany in the 1800s from Lemberg in Lower Styria known as present-day Slovenia.

Like all wines produced by winemaker François Morissette (I strongly suggest the story at this link), it offers a sublimely pure expression of its fruit.

Lemberger is a lighter-bodied red with a dark aspect that offers an array of fascinating aromas and flavours.

You might first notice violets and blue & red berries with suggestions of iron you sometimes taste in molasses. Indeed Lemberger is often described as “meaty” with a medium to high, but soft, tannin profile and moderate acidity coming largely from its thick skin.

As the name suggests, the grapes are dark blue and these produce a wine of curiosity. The wines have a savoury, peppery quality akin to Syrah with a range of flavours that will have you combing through your mental rolodex for descriptors.

There’s something almost raw about this wine and for me that makes it compelling. I would most certainly have this with beef or boar tartare. 

While it’s a bit of a wild thing, it also has a pretty throughline of purple flowers and even the faintest hint of fizz finishing with a lip-smacking hit of lingonberry. A very clean and precise wine.

According to Pearl Morissette director of hospitality Melissa Marynissen, “Primesautier means a spontaneous, lively, "first-jump".  This wine has been made with many grapes from Lemberger (current 2024) to blends of Pinot Noir, Gamay and others. It’s produced on a feeling rather than a specific grape.”

It’s certainly an energetic wine that commands your attention and it’s perfect for summer.