Review: Bacalhôa Moscatel de Setúbal

We all know Port. It’s been one of the world’s most celebrated dessert wines forever. Yet Portugal also makes a different style of dessert wine that is far more modest in price and yet will have you swooning at what’s in the glass.

Moscatel de Setúbal is a sweet, aromatic wine from the Setúbal peninsula. The peninsula sits just below Lisbon and is bracketed by the Atlantic ocean and the Tejo and Sado rivers.

There are many varieties of Muscat grapes within this class of aromatics and that includes grapes like Gewurztraminer and Irsai Olivér (Hungary). Not surprisingly most European countries make their own versions of dessert wines using grapes like Muscat de Alexandria, Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains (used to make sparkling Asti in Italy), Moscato Giallo, Muscat Hamburg, Muscat Ottonel and the list goes on.

From the last time I purchased the  Bacalhôa Moscatel de Setúbal to now, the price has shot up by a few dollars, but boy is this still a bargain for your cellar. 

On both the nose and palate, you’re confronted by a range of dried fruit, orange blossom, caramelized sugar, singed orange peel, toasted nuts, rose and lychee and so much more. It’s a wine that invites you to get out a notebook so you can jot down your impressions.

It has 118 grams of sugar per litre and while it is sweet, there’s nothing cloying about it. In fact, that lip-smacking tea tannin facet backed by the balanced acidity keeps it fresh sip after sip.

It’s satisfying as a nightcap but is also enjoyable with desserts like pasteis de nata (egg custard tart) or creme brûlee. My choice would be to serve it with a dried fruit and nut tray surrounded by cheeses like a medium Gouda, Cheddar and young Piave. 

Buy a case and drink over the next five years.