An affordable and high-quality Hungarian Riesling

This is an example of a Riesling that is supremely well made with grapes of quality and good ripeness. 

Phenolics are chemical compounds (polyphenols) that determine colour, taste, tannins and more in wine. (Another common wine term you may come across is “Anthocyanins” and these are polyphenols responsible for colour in wine and are more readily identified in red wines.)

The monastery winery behind this wine has a history going back almost a thousand years. While the age of the vines and the workers change, what is clear is that the standards have not and they’re very high.

It’s particularly true of aromatic grape varietals (Riesling, muscat grapes etc) that it is possible to vinify them to the point of dryness where the aromatic phenols almost disappear. Sugar does a good job of elevating the taste of fruit and the aromatics of a wine.

It’s always wonderful, therefore, to discover a Riesling that is both very dry but has sufficient fruit characteristics. A too dry Riesling will often result in the simple sensation of acidity. Here the Rajnai shows its pedigree.

On both the nose and palate, you’ll get grapefruit, lime pith and a distinct wet stone earthiness. There’s an uplifting white flower note that shines through and a fine stone dust texture that leaves you almost chewing every mouthful.

This is a contemplative wine and one you may just want to make notes on in your wine journal. While the best Rieslings can cellar for decades, you can feel comfortable laying this down for the next six years

Hungary is of course known for its famous sweet Tokaji wines, while other categories are sadly under-represented throughout much of Canada. The Rajnai Riesling may signal a well-deserved rediscovery of other wines from that country. 

While aromatic Rieslings with a little more residual sugar are an ideal pairing for spicier Southeast Asian cuisines, this elegant wine would be a delight with herb-butter scallops over a lemon risotto. 

The bottle is very tall and has an attractive presence on the table, signalling a seriousness. At this price, it’s worth discovering a Riesling from a country not widely known for this grape.

As of this writing, there are 72 bottles in the Ottawa market.